Public Space in Bolivia

I recently returned from a two week stay in La Paz, Bolivia. I grew up back and forth between the U.S. and Bolivia but it had been over 10 years since my last visit so the difference between my two home countries felt more pronounced than ever. One key difference that will forever resonate with me is the use and definition of public space.

I have been uneasy about the title public space in the U.S. for sometime, but didn’t fully understand why until I returned to Bolivia. One issue is that in the U.S. our public spaces often feel more like leisure space, designed for relaxation, recreation and beauty. We rarely see utilitarian shared spaces as being public. For example, sidewalks and streets are not often considered public as much as shared for the purpose of transporting ourselves to nearby places efficiently. These utilitarian shared spaces, since they are not fully regarded as public, are subject to even greater regulations of use.

In Bolivia, on the other hand, poverty, unemployment and costume prevent sidewalks, streets, parks, empty lots and all other spaces that are not privately owned from being highly regulated. Commerce in the form of open-air markets often takes over the sidewalks and even spills into the streets on weekends. Parks are frequented by mobile vendors hawking ice-cream, sandwiches, water and toys. Abandoned lots are overrun by ad-hoc kiosks were purveyors display everything from produce to bootleg DVDs. The resulting cacophony of commerce is either a hectic inefficiency blocking the flow of large commerce or a vibrant flow of the free market efficiently locating goods were they are most sought. Which one often depends on whether you are trying to go somewhere quickly or looking to purchase something quickly.

In the end, I find that the key difference between public space in Bolivia and that in the U.S. is that in Bolivia, for better or for worse, public spaces whether they are sidewalks, abandoned lots, parks or streets are often regulated to not limit any uses. So you are allowed to sell goods on the sidewalk as long as you don’t block people’s ability to walk on them. You are allowed to place kiosks on abandoned lots as long as you get out of the way when someone decides to build on them. You can hawk goods in the parks as long as you don’t prevent people from taking refuge in them. Your markets can spill onto the streets as long as you don’t prevent traffic from navigating around them. In the U.S. we approach public space from the opposite end. Each one has its preferred use and that use is given preference and even exclusivity. Sidewalks are for walking and should be free and clear of all other activities. Empty lots must remain empty until a preferred use is designated for them. Parks are recreational. Streets are for motorized vehicles. Period.